A snug Viennese stalwart that's squirreled away in the cellars of the Esterhazy Palace, this timeless heuriger has been drawing in the punters since 1683. The Esterhazys were one of the most powerful dynasties in Central Europe, but don't let the princely address put you off - this is very much an informal affair, and ideal for a light lunch or dinner. Order up a viertel of wine - which will happily lead to three or four more - and tuck into a platter of cold meats and salads. All the wines come from the Esterhazy Castle cellars in Eisenstadt, and they've been enjoyed here for generations - if you added up all the travellers who've tottered up the steps here you'd have a veritable army of tipsy phantoms.
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